Custom Tennis Chains: Stone Size, Length, Setting and Origin

A tennis chain is a single, unbroken line of diamonds, each in its own small setting, hinged to the next so the chain moves like fabric. There is no gold chain showing between the stones. That is the difference from an iced Cuban, where stones sit on the faces of gold links. For a side-by-side look at both styles, see Cuban link vs tennis chain.

Because the piece is nothing but stones and settings, two decisions do most of the work: how big each stone is, and how long the chain runs.

Tell us the stone size, length, setting, gold color and diamond origin. We send back the design and the exact price before anything is made. Once you approve, the chain is made and delivered with insured shipping, or picked up at our Miami showroom. Start on the custom page.

Tennis chains are sold by total carat weight, but you see stone size. This table connects the two for round brilliant diamonds. Carat per stone uses standard round-diamond size approximations (a 1 carat round is about 6.5 mm across). Totals for a 20 inch chain are rough estimates; the exact count depends on the setting and spacing.

Two things jump out. Each step up in stone size roughly doubles the carat weight. And bigger stones mean fewer settings, so the chain has a bolder, chunkier rhythm. The tennis chain size and carat chart covers more sizes and lengths.

Every extra inch adds stones, so length changes the price in a straight line. Going from 20 to 22 inches adds about 10 percent more diamonds.

Our round lab-grown diamond necklaces are all E color, VS1 clarity, and show how price per carat behaves:

The per-carat price falls as carats rise. Gold, settings and labor are a fixed part of every chain, so on bigger-stone pieces that fixed part is spread over more carats. If you are torn between two stone sizes, the larger one often gives more diamond per dollar.

• Four-prong: the most common choice. Minimal metal, maximum light, the brightest look.
• Three-prong: even less metal; stones look slightly larger. Best with medium stones.
• Bezel: a rim of gold around each stone. Most protective, smooth to the touch, a little less sparkle.

Our prong vs bezel comparison covers the trade-offs in depth. For the clasp, tennis chains use a box clasp, ideally with one or two side safety latches. On a chain carrying 15 to 30 carats, a double latch is cheap insurance.

The metal touches every stone, so it tints the whole chain. White gold settings make diamonds look whiter and are the classic tennis look. Yellow gold gives a warm, vintage feel and suits gold-heavy wardrobes. Rose gold is softer and less common on men's pieces. Two-tone is possible: a yellow gold body with white gold prongs keeps the warm color while the stones stay bright.

Karat matters for strength. Prongs bend and wear, so 14K gold, at 58.3 percent pure, is the common choice for tennis settings. 10K (41.7 percent) is harder still. 18K (75 percent) is softer and needs more frequent prong checks.

A tennis chain is almost all diamond, so origin decides most of the price. Lab-grown diamonds are real diamonds, graded on the same color and clarity scales, and let you choose bigger stones or a longer chain for the money. Natural diamonds suit buyers who want natural origin or an heirloom. The FTC requires lab-grown diamonds to be disclosed as laboratory-grown, so your quote should state origin beside total carat weight.

Ask for a color and clarity range for the stones. In a tennis chain, consistent color from stone to stone matters more than any single stone's grade; one yellowish stone in a white line stands out.

A bracelet built with the same stone size, setting and metal matches the chain exactly. Most women wear 6.5 to 7 inches and most men 8 to 8.5 inches. Our lab-grown diamond bracelets give a sense of the price: the Round Lab Diamond Bracelet 7.49 ct, 10K White Gold is $2,200 and the 26.6 ct in 14K Rose Gold is $9,000. See tennis bracelets for more.

Both are diamond chains, but they spend your budget differently. In a tennis chain almost all the money goes into diamonds, with just enough gold to hold them, so it reads as a pure line of light and stays light on the neck. In an iced Cuban a large share goes into gold, since the links are solid metal under the stones, so it reads heavier and bolder and weighs much more. If sparkle per dollar is the goal, the tennis chain usually wins. If you want weight, presence and the Miami link look, the Cuban wins. Many people end up wearing one of each, with the tennis chain sitting a couple of inches shorter.

Most tennis chains use one stone size all the way around. That is the classic look and the easiest to wear with anything. A graduated chain steps the stones up toward the center, for example from 2.5 mm at the back of the neck to 4 mm at the front. It puts the biggest stones where people see them and saves carats where nobody looks. Graduated chains suit women's necklaces and pieces worn without a pendant. For men's chains that may be layered or worn with a pendant, uniform stones keep the line even.

1. Drape it over your hand. It should fall smoothly, like liquid, with no stiff sections or links that catch.
2. Look along the line. Every stone should sit at the same height and face straight up, with no tilted stones.
3. Check color under daylight. Lay it on white paper. The stones should match from end to end.
4. Look at the prongs. Each prong should sit firmly over its stone, with no gaps and no sharp tips that snag a sweater.
5. Test the clasp. It should click shut firmly, and the safety latches should snap closed without force.
6. Read the paperwork. Total carat weight, origin, color and clarity range, and karat should all be written down.

A tennis chain is many small settings in a row, and each one is a place where lotion, sweat and soap collect. Rinse it in warm water with a drop of mild dish soap, brush the backs of the settings gently with a soft toothbrush, rinse and dry. Do not sleep in it; the hinges twist under body weight. Take it off for the gym, the pool and the ocean. Store it flat or hanging, apart from other pieces, since diamonds scratch gold. Have the prongs looked at about once a year, and right away if a stone moves or a prong catches on fabric.

Wearing it with a Cuban? Put the tennis chain 2 inches shorter than the Cuban so they sit apart instead of tangling.

The render for a tennis chain checks the stone size, the setting style and the clasp, and shows how the links hinge. Ask for a close view of four or five links at real size. After approval, the stages are sourcing and matching the stones, making the settings, setting each stone and finishing. Matching a long run of natural stones for color takes the most time. Your timing comes with the quote.

1. Total carat weight, set by stone size and length.
2. Origin, color and clarity of the stones.
3. Setting and gold: karat, color and how much metal each setting uses.
4. Clasp and extras: double latches, a matching bracelet.

Compare quotes on total carat weight, origin and grades in writing. Browse finished pieces in tennis chains, or read the tennis chain buying guide first.